Why is the attack to Kaddafi forces in Libya is welcomed by hesitation by Turkish authorities , Turkish people, and Middle East alike ?
Why is the attack to Kaddafi forces in Libya is welcomed by hesitation by Turkish authorities , Turkish people, and Middle East alike ? Simply because attacking to Libya by forces made up of western countries alone, without any participation from the countries of the same region , or religion; although these countries including Turkey were ready to bring support , just creates suspicion stated by Kaddafi himself
) : ” Crusaders are attacking again ” , around the same time when the media ( papers , tv ) of the countries of the region share the pain of the ” one million widows” left without a husband in Iraq , which is considered to be a result of the invasion of Iraq by the US : That is why the US is not standing as the sole power in the attack to the state forces of Libya although the US is the prime power in the attacks directed to the Kaddafi forces. This is for the good cause ( to stop another Hitler from mass massacre – his own people ) , but if your main partner in this act is Moslem unfriendly ( banning of scarfes in France etc ) France , there are some calculations wrong there. At the moment the UN forces is less like UN forces but the coalition of US , France, and UK alone. This , then gives an impression that another petrolium rich country like Iraq will be occupied by oppurtunist western forces. May the US , wake up from a mistake and get the phisical support of countries erlcomed highly in those territories like Turkey , which will enforce the humanitarian nature of the attack to Libyan forces to protect the Libyans who are being massacred while trying to get rid of Kaddafi, the Hitler or Saddam of the region, to retire soon.
The attack should more clearly be reflected as Libyans protected from Kaddafi, as opposed to Libya being attacked. Unfortunately, when you do not include even one of the nations of the region from the United Nations , and attack the Libyan government forces or army targets with civilian casualties that can not be avoided, this looks like Libya being attacked, not Libyans recued from Kaddafi.
Common Mistakes of visitors to Istanbul
1. Walking tour of Old Town
If you have not been walking and standing for 8 hours ( from 9am to 5pm) your following day will be ruined with your exausted body from this strenous day.
Yes, staying in the old town close to the monuments is a benefit, but most people are not equipped for a tiring tour like this. If you are over 20 year old and not a sportsmen, or a goaty traveller who is used to many hours of walking ( agreable distances ) and standing a full day walking tour is too much.
It should be half a day walking tour , good combination can be a Bosphorus cruise, drive along the Golden Horn with a cable car ride to Pierre Loti hill at Eyup district with a brief stop at the Islaimc sacred sites , or Ottoman Band performance.
2. Bosphorus Cruise :
a. 10.35 departure of city lines IDO ( pier is across Spice Market , right side of Galata bridge ) is packed; go for the next one at about 12 o’clock , and there is one more that loops and brings you back ( see my article about it ) ; it explores both European and Asiatic shores, and offers more.
b. If you have the insight of identifying the difference between quantity and quality ; take a shorter ( one hour) cruise from Ortakoy ( again see my article about it browse this blog or google “bitter bosphorus cruise” ) : Because the city transportation boat is not the rifgt type of boat for a pleasurable scenic Bosphorus experience. The limited outdect areas are all taken and you get stuck behind tiny windows.
3. Topkapi Palace & Hagia Sophia
In summer when Istanbul is packed , there are lines to buy a ticket for these museums ( Yes, the Byzantine Cathedral Hagia Sophia is also a museum ) ; and especially the treasury section of Topkapı Palace gets packed ( three tours groups alone make 120 visitors lined up outside it ) :
Your best bet in summer time when the palace is open until 7p.m ( last entrance 6 p.m. , indoor areas get closed from 6.30 on ) just get in the palace at 5 p.m. ; or 4.30 p.m. if you will also visit the Harem ( extra ticket sold inside , at its entrance for about 10$ US ) , and beat the crowds : Tour groups tend to go back to their hotels by 5 p.m. , orelse head for the bazaars by 4 pm ; as a result you have a big chance of having a leisurely tour especially from 5.30 on in the palace.
Originally , if you are staying for 5 or more days in Istanbul , you may plan like a little less then half a day for this palace alone, others will come back to Istanbul anyways.
4. Asiatic Istanbul
This is a good experience to non touristy Istanbul missed by over 90% of the visitors. Consider a dinner escape to Asia, Kadikoy district. Easy to commute by city lines boat from Eminonu ( Across Spice Market , Kadikoy pier ) . Kadikoy has got a nice walking district, produce market with many restaurants. Ciya is also here, but fine restaurants in districts of Kalamis, Moda, Canak Rest. of Acibadem are easily accessible from here.
5. Ottoman Military Band performs in the Military Museum at 3 p.m.closed on mon and tue 3.30 pm is second half. comes with 6 min video , 60 members in original Ottoman costume , admission fee: few liras , 2$ or so.
Although this can be combined with any tour to the new town ( Taksim Square – Istiklal Street ) visitors get tired from the 1000 advises of their guide books and end up missing this one.
6. Historical Turkish Bath visit for a non-bather
Especially Cağaloğlu Turkish Bath is a good brief experience, browsers are welcome since they are potential customers. Its lounge area is full of character, including the masseur characters hanging in that area , but not limited to that. This can be included to your walking route to the Grand Bazaar, from Hagia Sophia, past the entrrance of Basilica Cİstern on the same street.
7. Courtyard of New Mosque
This should be included to any tour of Spice Market. This courtyard is a good example to less is more; those grand mosques , Blue or Suleymaniye can nor compete with the charmingly decorated well proportioned courtyard of Blue Mosque.
Post Ramadan Holiday September 09 -12 2010 – Istanbul museum hours
Ramadan Holiday (09-12 Sep 2010) – Post Ramadan holiday museum opening times ( these dates will be similar in August – September 2011 ) :
Ramadan Holiday in Turkish is Ramazan Bayramı, it follows the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan. Turkey is secular , however , the museum times are influenced. Following Ramadan holiday, within September, most museum’s opening time will be similar to what it is on the second or third day.
Best time to go to Topkapi Palace is 2 hours before it closes, best time to go to Dolmabahce in summer is right when it opens in the morning; orelse there are long cues, or in the afternoon the visitor capacity of the palace finishes. If you have a guide, your guide purchases your ticket for you without waiting on the line for most of the museums : Exception : Dolmabahce Palace. The tickets can be booked through a travel agency if you book your tours through a travel agency , but minimum about 3 days in advance. I also offer Dolmabahce reservations through my associate authorised travel agencies.
Topkapi Palace (Tel: 0212 512 04 80):
1st day opens pm at 13:00 last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:00
2nd day open between 09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00
3rd day ” ” 09:00-19:00 last entance 18:00
Ayasofya Muzeum ( Hagia Sophia – St. Sophia ) (Tel: 0212 522 09 89):
1st day opens pm at 13:00 last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:00
2nd day open between 09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00
3 day open between 09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00
Kariye ( Chora ) Muzesi: (Tel: 0212 631 92 41):
1st day opens pm at 13:00 last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:00
2nd and 3rd day open between 09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00
Dolmabahce (Palace ) Sarayi: (Tel: 0212 236 90 00):
- day closed
- day open bet 09:00-17.00 last entrance 16:00
- day ” ” 09:00-17 ” ” 16:00
Istanbul Arkeoloji Muzeleri: (Tel: 0212 520 77 40):
- 1st day opens pm at 13:00 last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:0
- day open bet. 09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00
- day open bet. 09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00
Efes Muzesi: (Tel: 0232 892 60 10):
- gun ogleden sonra acik, acilis 13:00, kapanis 19:00, son giris 18:30
- gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
- gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
Efes Orenyeri: (Tel: 0232 892 60 10): Acik
1. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
2. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
3. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
Ankara Anadolu Medeniyetleri Muzesi: (Tel: 0312 324 31 60-61):
- gun ogleden sonra acik, 13:00 acilis, kapanis saati 18:30, son giris 17:30.
- gun acik, 08:30-18:30 arasi acik, son giris 17:30
- gun acik, 08:30-18:30 arasi acik, son giris 17:30
Antalya Muzesi: (Tel: 0242 238 56 88):
- gun ogleden sonra acik, 13:00-19:00 saatleri arasinda acik, son giris 18:30
- gun acik, 09:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
- gun acik 09:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
Goreme Acikhava Muzesi: (Tel: 0384 271 21 67):
- gun ogleden sonra acik, 13:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:15
- gun acik, 08:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:15
- gun acik , 08:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:15
Grand Bazaar Kapalicarsi: (Tel: 0212 522 31 73): Sep 8 open all day ,
closed during post ramazan holiday (9,10,11,12 Sep) and following sunday
Egyptian Bazaar Misir Carsisi: (Tel: 0212 522 55 92):
closed during post ramazan holiday (9,10,11,12 Sep) and following sunday
Basilica Cİstern Yerebatan Sarnici : (Tel: 0212 512 15 70):
1st day opens pm at 13:00 last entrance 18:30, closes at :19:00
2nd and 3rd day open between 09:00-19:00 last entra
Dressing Code in Istanbul – Turkey
Photographers in Turkey love to take photos like this one , showing contrasting eastern and western faces or conservative vs modern , religious vs secular or maybe in the eye of a devout person proper versus sinful ![]()
Yes the photo will be more artsy if you have proper light , better resolution and not much distraction to the main subjects; next time let me use models
)
The photo above is it is taken during the month of Ramadan , in front of Blue Mosque, and this is ground of the ancient hippodrome after the iftar ( after sunset – end of the day, end of the fasting ) . This is like an Islamic festival ground all Ramadan long after iftar; and you can try many sorts of home made meals to kebabs, deserts and view pious citizens enjoying themselves.
Originally at religious neighborhoods exposed shoulders like the girl in the photo is not proper , especially at a religious festival ground , but since the area is a prime tourist interest site and so close to all the hotels ; the very religious feeling of the festival ground seems to have been spoilt by the girl in the photo ( with two more friends of her ) . Elsewhere at a number of places , less conservative grounds, districts or events this could have been an okey outfit, but not necessarily right there ; and yet, let’s admit : She is so well prepared : Fİrst I saw her she had that shawl around her neck covering her shoulder like her friends did; and growing the feeling for the neighbourhood the shawl just almost disappeared by going around the neck. Good tacticks; not too respectful to the neighborhood, but well prepared.
Well this was evaulation of the photo : In short any dress can be acceptible depending on situations. Turkey even has beaches where people go topless, however especially when it comes to visiting religious areas like Eyup distrcit or sites like mosques, proper dressing is required. The dress of the girl above by covering the shoulder could even work in mosques ( courtyard is part of the mosque ) .
Exception for Blue Mosque ( Sultanahmet Mosque is its genuine name ) : You could walk in to the courtyard with a proper short like a bermuda if the courtyard is not used for a warship to immediately go to the entrance to be given shawl to wrap around your belly ( in more conservative areas you will be required to put a scarf to your head as well – ladies only ) . If you walk around in shorts in the courtyard, 90% no one says anything but you may hurt the conservative people : That ground is built for their use and if you would like to share their ground with them , you need to notice their regulations, respect their faith. A proper dress, but hair exposed is considered okey in most mosques.
For a man ( and possibly for women ) a bermuda as long as the knee is good enough. For the man it meets the exact Islamic regulation. Usually knee to be covered.
Enjoy your time in Istanbul ( Eyup district with the 5 min. cable car ride to Pierre Loti Hill and the modern Sakirin Mosque in Asiatic Istanbul enhances your appreciation of the city ; Istanbul is not only old town, Bosphorus, Taksim square, 3 palaces 1 cistern, 1 mosque, 2 churches, 2 bazaars. If you believe you had good enough Istanbul by 2 -3 days in Istanbul ; that judgment is inadequate , do not read the rest of this blog.
Sister Monuments : Hagia Sophia and Washington Monument
Hagia Sophia and Washington Monument are sister monuments due to the fact that they have both got the art work of the same artist: The huge roundels with works of calligraphy and the Ottoman plaque of Sultan Abdulmecid laid in Washington Monument are works of the same master , Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi.(*1)
in by 2ft 2in] with the
the imperial cipher – the tugra, and a chronogram
verse ( a Chronogram
verse is a verse in which the the numerical
values of all the letters equal the
date of the commemorated event).
A poem by poet Ziver Pasa containing a chronogram was written by the order of the Sultan :
“In support of eternal friendship,
Abdülmecid Han allowed his honorable
name to be written in the tall stone ( monument) in Washington. “
The text In Ottoman Turkish :
Devam-ı hulleti te’yid içün Abdülmecid
Han’ın yazıldi nam-ı paki seng-i balaya
Vashinkton’da.
The artist, calligrapher Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi :
Güzel yazılmış bir hattı okumak lalenin kokusunu almaya benzer.
Reading a well written calligraphy is like smelling a tulip
Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi
( Kazasker may translate is minister of Justice literally kadı – asker , judge soldier )
He was a great Caligrapher, a graduate of Galatasaray Imperial School ( still existing, today as a high school, as the famous historical Galatasaray High School on Istiklal Street of the new town ) .
His incredible voice collected the attention of the previous Sultan and he was initially educated in the impreial palace as a ney ( ottoman reed flute ) performer – floutist . He was also the master teaching Ottoman princes the caligraphy art.
The roundels at Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) read the names of Allah, Muhammed and the first 4 caliphs (Ebubekir, Ömer, Osman, Ali) , each with a 7.6 meter diameter.
(*2) by M. Ugur Derman
“From some traces of gold leaf still remaining
in the upper right and left cornices, we can
see that before the plaque was sent to America,
the calligraphy and decoration cut in bas relief
were gilded with gold leaf. In spite of the broken
letter elif in the lam-elif of bala (high, lofty)
and the fact that the dot over the letter nun (n)
of Vas¸inkton has fallen off, and that some of the
finials are later restorations, the plaque has
fared quite well over its 147-year existence.”
Top Sites in Istanbul
Top Istanbul Sites
Top sites and museums u should see in Istanbul :
1. Topkapi palace
( , treasury ticket , hectic ticket booth locations info : )
Harem : (most tours don’t include it. It’s considered as a seperate museum in the palace. (Tickets are 10$ approx). It has got around 400 rooms. Only about 15 – 20 of the chambers are open to visitors.
There is no guided tour, and very few explanatory signs; it seems like the museum is pushing a private company’s electronic guide service purchase . With the exception of 3 – 4 chambers ( the large ceremonial hall, chief eunuch room with his and an assistant’s maniquenne - model – , one of sultan’s mother’s coffee corner ) you do not really see furniture. Sutan Ahmet private chamber has got almost no furniture, but the little decorative fountain, tile work, the fireplace can be enough by itself to make your visit to the Harem worthwhile ; if 19th century style talks to you, the Harem of Dolmabahce has got all of the genuine furniture , paintings, chandiliers, that may talk to a number of visitors more, but architecture of Topkapi palace Harem part is simply impressive.
First you would buy a ticket to get in the palace. The Harem tickets are sold inside the palace, in front of the entrance of the Harem. The tours begin every half an hour. Towards the closing time the palace is more peaceful (cruiseship groups are gone ) , there is an excellent outdoor cafe – restaurant facing the Bosphorus straits – one of the best view in town, if you are not on a budget tour , its a la carte restaurant has got one of the top lamb schank you may ever it in all of Turkey ( also at Ali Baba and Hacı Abdullah restaurants , plus I cook it as good ) .
( the roof of Hamdi Restaurant – lunch or dinner , short walking to the Spice Bazaar (we call it Misir Carsisi – no dots above the i letters and a comma at the bottom of C, attached to it – the turkish letter for ‘ch’.
2. SAINT SOPHIA CHURCH – The Byzantine Cathedral , the Church of the Divine Wisdom, with its bright red brickwork and its four minarets. Emperor Justinian’s dream was chiselled out of stone in record time 5 years and 10 months! On 27 December in 537 AD, the church opened up as the largest Christian church of its time. Sultan Mehmet II. after conquering Constantinople, converted the church into a Mosque. And this destiny is easily visible on a tour (9:30 am – 5:00 pm Tuesday to Sunday; admission is 20 lira = 10 euro = 13,5$).
3. THE BASILICA CISTERN -A Bond movie locaiton : – From Russia with Love , showing Mr. Bond escaping from one building to another by sailing on a little boat in the cistern.
4. A Bosphorus Cruise.
6. ST. SAVIOUR IN CHORA CHURCH – You will appreciate Byzantine art at its peak with the mosaics and fresqoes decorating all of the walls of the church, giving completer life cycles of Mary and Christ (Mary’s childhood details are breathtaking, unknown to westerners – bases on Apocriphal work of St. James )
7. BLUE MOSQUE & SULEYMANIYE MOSQUE- The top two Imperial mosques of ISTANBUL . The Blue Mosque is exceptional in more ways than one. Being the only mosque with six minarets and thus seen to rival the Great Mosque in Mecca, the latter had an extra one added after all, Mecca is Mecca! The cost of building the Blue Mosque was exceptional too: it turned into a black hole for the public purse.
In retrospect, the horrendous costs did pay off, though. So: dress appropriately, you are entering a mosque, after all ( if you’re not wearing something suitable, scarf or a shawl is provided free of charge at the entrance. It is adviced to carry a schawl on this holy gounds of the mosque to use as a skirt if you are wearing a short not to offend the warshippers) no entry at prayer times, also half an hour prior to to close the gate tourists enter through the gateon the west side shoes off, socks, or matching socks
not a must. If you are wearing a bermuda pull it down to your knees and that is fine for a man , for ladies, they may still provide a schawl to wrap your self up.
Once inside, the visitor is astonished by cascades of light colour and designs: tiles with dominant color blue, huge candelabras, and 260 windows, most of them stained glass make for an unrivalled impression. And, with the mosque not only being a place of worship, but also a social institution, it was also provided with a soup kitchen, a hammam for the bath and shops.
8. ASIATIC non touristy ISTANBUL – Ignored by visitors , Asiatic Istanbul is also impressive . Would you like to be the only tourists in a local vegetable and fish marketplace and then have lunch at restaurant, where the grand grand father of the owner was THE COOK OF THE OTTOMAN PALACE! Followed by a drive through the top residential areas and scenic Bosphorus driveway.
Sakirin Mosque with its reputaiton of being the first one designed by a woman ( Mrs. Fadillioglu ) is among places of interest, highliy worthwhile.
9. Shopping at the Grand or the Egyptian Bazaar.
10 . TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ARTS MUSEUM ( across Blue Mosque, behind Egyptian Obelisk )
11. THE HOUSE OF MR. SABANCI – This is one of the two top wealthy Turkish families, their palatial house is just converted into a private museum; what a priviledge to see it . Mr . Sabanci is an art collector, and his Calligrapy collection went around the world. The family at one point was in Fortune 500 listing .
12. THE ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM – includes unique artefacts like Alexander the great Sarcophagus. One of the most important archaelogical museums of the world.
13. STREET CAR RIDE ON ISTIKLAL STREET – Fanciest walking street of Istanbul with late 19th century Italian architecture. Cafes, bars, window shopping, people watching. Famous Pera Palas Hotel can be included.
14. PRINCE ISLANDS & CART RIDE ON THE GRAND ISLAND – For Istanbul visitors staying 4 days or more.
Istanbul – the Byzantine Constantinople Istanbul was the capital city of three empires : Ottoman , Byzantine , and Roman Empires , and she was ruled over 120 kings, emperors and sultans. The impressive Bosphorus Straits of Istanbul with so many palaces and mansions built along is admired highly by the visitors on a fancy 2 hour cruise. This is also the site of the �Clashing Rocks� in the Mythology, through which �Jason & The Argounats� were trying to pass. Many visitors come back to Istanbul in winter for a weeks� stay to enjoy more in depth. Active churches, and Synagogues as well as the mosques attract visitors at religiously significant days, like feasts, or Christmas. Special Istanbul visits : Topkapi & Dolmabahce Palace, The Blue Mosque, The Grand Ottoman Military Band of the Ottomans, Saint Sophia Church & Basilica Cistern of the Byzantines , An unforgettable Bosphorus Straits Cruise , Shopping at the Grand or the Egyptian Bazaar.
Istanbul 2010 Summer Museum entrance fees
The information ( rates etc ) below is updated in April 2010 ( 1$ US = 1,485 )
Entrance fee to Topkapi and Hagia Sophia
( Ayasofya ) : 20 tl Harem Section of Topkapi 15tl ?
Basilica Cistern 15 tl
check back soon for more.
istanbul highlighs – site descriptions and 2 days tour program
Private İstanbul Program for 2 or 3 days
( until I include the photos to the article below , you may access the photo version of this text at http://www.scribd.com/doc/28502706/Istanbul-Highlighs-Site-Descriptions-and-2-Days-Tour-Program )
This program includes visits to special Istanbul sites some of which are not the focus of large tour groups due to requiring special interest or convenience which includes difficulties with parking tour busses : As an instance in an interesting list named “ 1000 places you should see before you die’ , the name of a mosque from Istanbul is given, Suleymaniye Mosque. This is more impressive than Blue Mosque; yet its location is not easily accessible for tour busses or parking is expensive for tour vans ; as a result less tours go to see this superior mosque of Istanbul.
Your tour guide will adjust the order of the visits, with daily small fine tunings according to what accommodates you the best.
On some of the days the cruiseship passengers crowd the major museums and on such days visiting especially Topkapi Palace around 4.30 – 5 p.m. may work better. Topkapi Palace stays open until 7 pm .
Detailed descriptions of the sites mentioned in the program are at the bottom of these pages.
Day 1.
You will begin your day by exploring the 4 century old narrow streets around the Spice Market before getting to the mainstream visitors’ interest, The Egyptian Bazaar named as Spice Market in English resources.
Then onto Sokullu M. Pasa mosque for a brief stop which is close to the Blue Mosque to have the experience of a visit to a mosque that is not the mainstream tourist attraction. This is one of the most impressive mosques of architect Sinan of the 16th century despite being smaller in size than the sultan mosques. The mosque has got pieces of the most sacred stone for the Muslims, the black stone – hacerüleswed.
Blue Mosque and Hippodrome will be the next stops. After lunch break explore Ayasofya , the Byzantine Cathedral, and Basilica Cistern.
Day 2.
Topkapi Palace and highlights of the Archaelogical Museum will cover the whole morning.
Notice : Harem of Topkapi palace is only available before 3 p.m., guides are not allowed to give information in the Harem, and there is no palace guide inside. Only hiring an electronic talking guide hand unit is available. Dolmabahce palace’s harem section is recommended more, since it has got almost all of the original furnitures as opposed to few in Topkapi .
After lunch a visit to a reputable warehouse, Sirca is possible, if you grow your interests in these Turkish arts : Ceramic and pottery. Sirca is the provider of state ceramic gifts to the dignitaries of the countries visited by their Turkish counterparts; Attending a pottery production performance is possible ( on most tours in the old town, walking from one site to another nearbye one may equal walking and standing all day long; such stops for brief demonstrations also help to rest a bit. ) Later you can also stop by the store of their major rival in Turkey , Iznik ceramic foundation if you have further interest.
Proceed to Suleymaniye Mosque and Grand Bazaar.
Late afternoon : Explore Istiklal Street with tunel area, Balik Pazari ( fish market ) Nevizade Street, Cicek Pasaji, Ara Guler’s café ( just walk by) , St. Antuanne Church.
Day 3.
Drive along Golden Horn Estuary to go to Chora. Chora the Byzantine church with its Christian mosaics and frescoes Is in any art book referring to the Byzantines.
(visit http://www.pbase.com/dosseman/istanbul_kariye )
At 3 o’clock is the Ottoman military band performance in Nisantasi district. Half an hour stay will introduce this band that influenced in Mozart, Beethoven and Chaikowsky. If the concert is indoors there will also be an impressive slide presentation for 10 minutes.
On a weekend day , lesser known by visitors but trendy for locals is Ortakoy district ( see the site desription section below ) , where unpressurised shopping with inexpensive souveniers from lady street vendors will be available, as well as a Bosphorus cruise.
We recommend a 3.30 p.m. visit to this area with a cruise by 4.20 or an hour later.
Time Planning :
The tours are 8 hours, they may begin at 8.30 9 or 9.30 according to your selection ( most museums open at 9 or 9.30 )
Istiklal Street can best be enjoyed at early evening from 8 to 9 p.m. So, the day you would enjoy a late visit to Topkapi palace, Istiklal Street can be combined .
Bosphorus Cruise and Ortakoy district is more fun at about 7 p.m. , this can be combined with your dinner, with the areas fine restaurants like Feriye. If you would like a late Ortakoy program after 5.30 p.m. though there will be surcharge for keeping your guide and your van longer, you will surely enjoy this better.
Your Tour Guide
We just use top guides for our tours. Your Tour Guide is Oguz Kosebalaban who also has a bachelor’s degree from Ankara University’s Faculty of Political Sciences. He is a short movie film maker and scenario writer. In April 2007 his short movie was found eligible to compete in the finals in a contest held by Nokia , Turkey in cooperation with İstanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts
( http://www.iksv.org/film/english/film.asp?Cid=195 ) His movie is at the end of the list , since the list of movies is in Alphabetical order.
His travel articles are frequently being quoted in his colleague’s tours. His website address is www.welldoneturkey.com
Site Descriptions :
Ortakoy District
This is a waterfront area that resembles to Seaport of New York City, the major difference being the mosque instead of the mall at Seaport.
This is right before the first suspension bridge connecting Europe to Asia over the Bosphorus Straits, as referred to in Homer’s book Odyssey, the site of the clashing rocks.
19th century Grand Mecidiye Mosque is situated on the shore as if it were floating. This was the setting as the background with the mosque and the bridge connecting two continents for the speech of President Bush during Nato summit in 2004, the context of which was the peace between eastern and western world, the brotherhood of religions. The location was intelligently chosen by
The U.S.
( http://www.whitehouse.gov/news/releases/2004/06/20040629.html )
with especially the mosque being the background for president Bush at a time when American jets were bombing another muslim nation’s territory, Iraque. This contributed to the image of the U.S. to emphasise that the U.S. was friends with Islamic nations , the Iraque conflict does not have any religious connection. ( by then your guide Oguz Kosebalaban escorted CBS News, and analysed the choice for this setting for the tv commenter )
This area converts into an up scaled flea market – the look is the look of a flea market but the items offered on the stands are brand new and nice, and prices are much beter than the tripled or quadrupled rates of Grand Bazaar. But stil there is minor negotiation possibilities from the low profit margins of these sweat lady vendors.
Daily after 4.20 there is a Bosphorus cruise departure from here.
Istiklal Street
Ayasofya
(Below; on the left . Across Ayasofya on the right is Blue Mosque with 6 minarets)
532-537 emperor Justinian I erected the greatest Church in the ancient Christian world. The bold structure was a combination of Roman Basilica and domed Roman central building, the central element of which was a dome with a diameter of 101,7 ft (31 m) and a height of 160,7 ft. (49 m) after the example of Hadrian’s Pantheon in Rome. Neither in Byzantine nor Osmane days this dimension ever was surpassed. After several seismic shocks however the dome imploded in 558. The dome we see today was consecrated in 562. The dome we see today is 23 ft (7 m) higher and was consecrated in 562.
Daylight is flooding the church through 91 windows, illuminating the incredible beauty of the interior, which is adorned with marble tiles, elaborate, colourful mosaics and pictures, created from ceramics, precious and semiprecious stones, gold… The structure of the interior and the play of light convey the impression of weightlessness, which certainly contributed to the churches legendary fame.
Thanks to its grandeur and beauty the church served as a house of God, even under the reign of Osmane Sultans, all together for almost 1400 years! After the conquest of Constantinople in 1453 by the Turks under Mehmed II, the Hagia Sophia was used as mosque until the Turkish republic was founded in 1923. Today it is a museum.
Hippodrome
This is the area in front of Blue Mosque. The most precious ancient remnant of the Hippodrome and oldest monument of Constantinople is the Egyptian obelisk, which was erected by Pharaoh Thutmosis III in Karnak 1471 BC.
Tripod of Plataea : The three snakes of the Tripod of Plataea, seen on the left , was transferred to Constantinople by the
emperor Constantine, where it stands today
in the Hippodrome Square. The names of the cities, which took part in the battle, are written in the body.
Basilica Cistern
The cistern, built by emperor Justinian around 542, is also called the “Sunken Palace”, which aptly reflects the magical atmosphere of this subterranean building. The reservoir had a capacity of 80.000 cubic feet of water and provided the quarter around the Hagia Sophia as well as the emperor’s palace and later the Topkapi palace. On an area of 453 x 213 ft. (138 x 65 m) or 2,2 acres (8970 m²) a dim wood of 336 marble columns, which support the up to 8 m high vault, is reflected in the
water.
Walkways and atmospheric lighting make the Cistern a great tourist attraction, which takes you back into ancient times.
Topkapı Palace
The imperial Palace of the Ottomans is the hub of the Ottoman universe (complete sightseeing tour: allow for ½ day) After conquering Constantinople, Mehmet II chose the smartest spot in town as his home. At the tip of the peninsula on which Constantinople was located, washed by the waves of the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara, he built his Topkapi Palace subdivided into four courtyards. It wasn’t just his home, however. This is where the strings of world history were being pulled: the business of the empire was done , the Ottoman bureaucracy was educated, and the sultan’s elite troops, the janissaries, housed (first courtyard). By the way, from this first courtyard one path towards ( the direction of the street car street ) north takes you to the Archaelogical museum .
And being less than careful in the second courtyard could actually cost you your head. If you were only waiting to see the sultan about something (third courtyard), you’d better watch which queue you were in – the sultan’s executioners were also housed here, ready to fulfil their master’s wishes. And, if you thought you could catch a glimpse of what was going on in the harem (Buy a separate ticket , well worth the visit!), you’d be very wrong. The harem, well-guarded by the sultan’s mother, could be entered by only one man – the sultan himself (as you can well imagine, eunuchs could come and go as they pleased). From the early 16th century, when the brothers of the heir to the throne were no longer being sent straight back to meet their maker, they were also allowed to live in the harem. ( in a cosy cell ) And if now, like the sultan in former times, you feel like taking a break and a cup of coffee, go on to the fourth courtyard, a large garden with pavilions and an unforgettable view of the entrance to the Bosphorus.
Spice Market
Kuru yemis (KOO-roo yeh-meesh) means “dried fruits.” Turkey grows a lot of wonderful fruit. To preserve and store it in the days before tin cans and refrigeration, much of it was dried. Dried fruit is convenient! No cans or packages to open or dispose of, no need for refrigeration. Just add mouth! Plums, figs, dates, apricots, apples…even blackberries and other berries which are pressed and dried into sheets (“fruit leather“), the stuff you see right at the center of the photo above; from the Spice Market. Don’t forget the nuts: high protein, high flavor, low maintenance: walnuts, almonds, peanuts, pistachios and of course hazelnuts (filberts), of which Turkey’s Black Sea Coast furnishes half the world supply.
Grand Bazaar
Though this bazaar became rather touristy especially with cruiseships bringing couples of ten thousand visitors on some of the days! ; still this is an impressive site at least for window shopping ; if you are not pulled into a shop by a slightly more than enthusiastic! Vendor!
)
The mother of all covered market places had humble beginnings as a much smaller market in 1461, during the reign of Mehmet the Conqueror. Now comprised of well over four thousand shops stretching over a maze of sixty-odd winding streets, it easily holds the title of largest covered market in the world. And inside: everything from belly-dancing outfits to ‘cezve’ (pronounced ‘jesveh’ – the special copper pots for brewing Turkish coffee). The bazaar’s streets are named and labeled, but still confusing. Unfortunately, this bustling space of the new and old has had its fair share of tragedies. Earthquakes and fires have both affected the building more than once – the most recent being the major fire of 1954. After each event, the Grand Bazaar was repaired, but original records have been lost forever. And so, we’ve lost that bit of history too. But life marches on in and around the bazaar. Around, because the marketplace is not merely within the walls of the official covered section, but it also extends past the surrounding areas to create an open-air shopping arena that disappears each evening until its subsequent morning arrival.
Bosphorus Cruise
Bosphorus Straits divides Europe from Asia and connects Black Sea to Marmara Sea and never fails to impress visitors with upscaled waterfront wooden mansions, palaces, fortresses, parks and woods.
Bosphorus is mentioned twice in Mythology : Jason and the Argounats crossing the clashing rocks ( Bosphorus Straits must then be an earth quake fault line – hence ; “clashing rocks” ) , and its link with Io , the mistress of Zeus , giving it the name Bosphorus , meaning the passage of the heifer. Not to forget Persian King Darius crossing his army on a bridge made up of boats anchored next to one another. 2 impressive suspension bridges, palatial houses on both sides, Ottoman Palaces (Dolmabahce, Beylerbeyi, Ciragan ) , Castles ( Rumeli and Anadolu Castles ), mosques, forests and more.
Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmed I, who ascended the throne at the age of fourteen was an extremely religious-minded sultan, who displayed his religious fervor in his decision to construct a mosque to compete with Ayasofya. For the site, a suitable place was long sought before the decision was taken. At last the mosque decided to build on the site of the palace of Ayse Sultan. The owner of the palace was compensated and the site prepared by the architect Sedefkar Mehmet Aga, who began the construction in 1609. This architect poet and inlayer completed this great work in 1617. An imperial lodge, school, service kiosk and single and double storied shops were included in the complex, which spread over the area around the mosque. The mosque itself is surrounded on three sides by a broad courtyard, and is entered on each side by a total of eight portals. The inner court is reached through three gates, and is paved in marble, and surrounded by revaks supported on columns of pink granite and marble, and two of porphyry, and surmounted by 30 cupolas. A fine fountain for ablution takes up the center of the courtyard, surrounded by six marble columns. The mosque is unique with its six minarets in Istanbul. Four of these have three balconies, two have two balconies each, a total of 16 in all. The most original feature of the mosque is the 260 windows through which it is so well lit. A total of 21043 tiles have been used in the interior. The mosque received its synonym as the Blue Mosque from the bluish haze given to the interior by these tiles. The faience consists of floral and rumi motifs of various colors on white ground. These are very fine examples of the art of tiling. The bronze and wooden decorations and artifacts of the mosque are also very fine. Calligraphy is the work of Kasim Gubari and the fine mother-of-pearl window shutters are the work of Sedefkar Mehmet Ada. Ahmed I died in 1617 and was buried near the mosque.
Süleymaniye Mosque
The cascading domes and four slender minarets of the Imperial Suleymaniye Mosque dominate the skyline on the Golden Horn’s west bank. Considered the most beautiful of all imperial mosques in Istanbul, it was built between 1550 and 1557 by Sinan, the renowned architect of the Ottoman Empire’s golden age. Erected on the crest of a hill, the building is conspicuous for its great size, emphasized by the four minarets that rise from each comer of the courtyard. Inside are the mihrab (prayer niche showing the direction to Mecca) and the mimber (pulpit) made of finely carved white marble and exquisite stained-glass windows coloring the incoming streams of light. It was in the gardens of this complex that Suleyman and his wife, Hurrem Sultan (Roxelane), had their mausolea built, and near here also Sinan built his own tomb. The mosque complex also includes four medreses, or theological schools, a school of medicine, a caravanserai, a Turkish bath, and a kitchen and hospice for the poor.
Turkish Bath
Another great experience in Istanbul is experiencing a Turkish Bath visit at one of the historical Istanbul Baths in the Old Town. Before the times everyone had a bathroom in their homes, a trip to the hammam was essential, in order to perform your ritual cleansing which was also a must according to Islam. While declining in popularity amongst the local folks since the widespread availability of hot and cold running water, the hammam continues to be a “try it once” type activity for enthusiastic visitors. A funny action Turkish bath sequence of one of Jackie Chan’s Movie – Golden Fist was filmed in one of these Baths.
( as described by a visitor in past years : )
“ Wiley and I paid 10 million lira ( the ongoing rate for full service is about 70 Lira , today = 55$ ) each for our scrubbings. Then we parted, as the hammam we were in wasn’t co-ed, but apparently many are today. I didn’t really want a guy giving me a bath, so we specifically hunted this place down. Once in the women’s changing area, I was given a thin cloth, a locker key, and told to “take everything off”. ( you may wear your bathing suit, but still they provide a bath material the size of a bath towel , which you wrap around your body ) I obeyed, somewhat tenuously, and silently wished that I had read more closely the section of the guidebook that describes exactly WHAT you’re supposed to do, once inside.
The changing room attendant pointed the way into a hallway, which I followed, until it came to a large, domed room, with a round marble slab in the center, and marble sinks all around the outside. There was one woman in there already, laid out on the slab, so I followed her lead. I took off my cloth, spread it out on the warm marble, and laid myself out. I was somewhat uncomfortable at first, but more and more women came into the room, and it became obvious that none of us had a clue what was going on, so I relaxed. It was very warm in the room and I was sweating profusely, but it was quiet and calm in there, and I just laid back and looked lazily at the warm sunlight filtering in through the small circular windows in the dome.
Eventually I was called over to another part of the slab by a large Turkish women, who was wearing nothing but navy blue panties and the evidence of a Caesarean section. She spread out my cloth, and motioned for me to lay down. She then proceeded to pour buckets of warm water all over me, then scrubbed me down with some type of exfoliating mitt. Then she brought over a bucket of warm, sudsy water and began my “soap down”. I’m pretty sure I’ve never been so clean. The cleaning also included a light massage, which was nice. Once she had soaped me up and washed me, she rinsed me with more warm water, then lead me into another room, where she washed my hair. After a couple more rinses with warm water, she hit me with a final bucket of cold water, which felt really good. After that, I dried off, dressed, and met Wiley back in the lobby. We both agreed that it was a somewhat bizarre experience, but that it certainly must have been luxurious in the days before hot running water.”
add IQ -Istanbul for advanced visitors :)


Lesser Known Jewels of İstanbul
Istanbul For Advanced Visitors
( until I include the photos to the article below , you may access the photos included version of this text at http://www.scribd.com/doc/28502758/Add-IQ-Istanbul-for-Advanced-Visitors )
This tour program is designed for visitors who have already been to the typical highlights of Istanbul like Ayasofya, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar, Spice Market.
At each site on this tour the duration is between 45 minute to 1 hour which is plenty to appreciate each site without overdoing it; this also enables inclusion of other sites to the program. The detailed site description is below the itinerary information.
We will begin our day with a stop at the Byzantine church Chora – now a museum; famous for the Mosaics and frescoes showing the life cycles of Christ and Mary; especially Mary’s life cycyle based on St. James’ apocryphal Gospel .
The highlights of the Archeological Museum ( sarcophagi and Istanbul & Environs sections only )
Basilica cistern from 6th century is our next stop before lunch. This structure is also famous for a sequence of a James Bond movie –
From Russia with Love, filmed here.
After lunch we are heading to the 19th century Dolmabahce Palace’s – Harem Section where we will explore the interesting details of the Harem life with incredible decorations from ceiling to the floor.
Then we will visit Ortakoy district; a lovely waterfront area which turns into a nice street market on weekends. Here you may take your own postcard quality photo of the famous mosque Grand Mecidiye and the suspension bridge connecting the two continents as well as the Bosphorus straits.
Note :
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There is an Ottoman military Band performance at 3 o’clock in the Military museum for half hour, including an incredible slide presentation. Addition of this expands the program for 1 hour.
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Below you will also find the details of a stroll on Istiklal Street , as well as lesser known interesting off Spice Market areas.
Modifying the program by adding or subtracting some of these sites is available.
Site Descriptions :
Spice Market and neighboring streets
Kuru yemis (KOO-roo yeh-meesh) means “dried fruits.” Turkey grows a lot of wonderful fruit. To preserve and store it in the days before tin cans and refrigeration, much of it was dried. Dried fruit is convenient! No cans or packages to open or dispose of, no need for refrigeration. Just add mouth! Plums, figs, dates, apricots, apples…even blackberries and other berries which are pressed and dried into sheets (“fruit leather“). Don’t forget the nuts: high protein, high flavor, low maintenance: walnuts, almonds, peanuts, pistachios and of course hazelnuts (filberts), of which Turkey’s Black Sea Coast furnishes half the world supply.
Off-Spice Market shopping streets are at least as impressive as Spice Market ( Egyptian Bazaar) itself : The four century old streets with four century old spice shops around Rustem Pasa Mosque is where we begin our exploration of these streets, lesser known to tourists.
The stroll will introduce secrets of Turkish cuisine: Hanging dried eggplant and pepper skins, black sesame, varities of olive and chilly pepper, henna for your red hair, sumac, cheese market, and pet market will reveal insights from life in Istanbul with an half hour stroll, which may be combined with your Spice Market visit to buy Turkish delight with mastic or classical version with pistachios in it according to your choice. The pomegranate vinegar also available which is the taste enhancing factor of “mountain of the infidels salad” – “Gavurdağı Salatası” , which is found only in very few fine restaurants including the nearby Hamdi, which also happens to have one of the best Baklava and şöbiyet ( special baklava with touch of cream in the center ) of all of Turkey.
Ortaköy District + 1 hour Bosphorus Cruise
This area is missed by most visitors to İstanbul due to guide books not emphasizing its charms at the right dose. It offers incredible Bosphorus view , fine street markets and the best plus the most efficient Bosphorus cruise for 1 hour . ( afternoons only, after 3 or 4 pm at 20’ pasts )
These reasons make this one of the top waterfront strolling areas for İstanbul citizens.
Best time : afternoons and early evenings, preferably weekends , if you would like to enjoy the street market at its zenith.
This is a waterfront area that resembles to Seaport of New York City, the major difference being the mosque instead of the mall at Seaport.
This is very close to the first suspension bridge connecting Europe and Asia over the Bosphorus Straits ; as referred to in Homer’s book Odyssey, the site of the clashing rocks.
19th century Grand Mecidiye Mosque is situated on the shore as if it were floating.
This area converts into an up scaled flea market – the look is the look of a flea market but the items offered on the stands are brand new and nice, and prices are better than the tripled or quadrupled rates of Grand Bazaar. But still there is minor negotiation possibilities from the low profit margins of these softly spoken female vendors.
Highlights of Archaeological Museum – 40 minutes
Lots of visitors think Arch. Museums are boring : If you spend a half day in Istanbul in an Arch. Museum instead of covering more territories of this vibrant city , you are probably right; though special interest visitors are thrilled here.
The compromise is a 40 minute tour offering highlights of this museum : The sarcophagi collection never fails to impress visitors including the one that is called Alexander the Great.
Dolmabahce Palace – the Harem Wing
Harem section makes up the two thirds of Dolmabahce Palace. Passage from Mabeyn and Muayede Hall to Harem is through corridors with iron gates and heavy timber doors, a remark of the traditional segregation. The spacious halls lightened by the reflections of Bosporus, the bedrooms of Sultans, his wives, concubines, sons and daughters, and study and lounge rooms are all in this section. The apartment of Valide Sultan (Mother Sultan), Blue and Pink Halls, the rooms of Sultans Abdülmedjid, Abdülaziz and Resad, concubines section, matrons rooms, Great Atatürk’s study and bedroom and many valuable artifacts such as furnitures, rugs and kilims, inscriptions, vases, chandeliers, oil paintings are the most interesting and impressive features of Harem.
Istiklal Street
The modern quarter of Beyoglu, especially Taksim Square and Istiklal Street, symbolizes the cosmopolitan setting and the cultural openness of the city. Also described as a Mecca for the young and beautiful in İstanbul, the street is offered as a big Istanbul attraction in the numerous travel guides.
It is lined with impressive 19th century buildings along the whole street for two kilometers as well as funky cafes, bluesy bars, restaurants, and cinemas.
The highlights tour here begins with a stroll from Tunel district ( the whirling dervishes center, Galata Mevlevihanesi is also here ) through nice narrow streets with fine street cafes. You will also get a chance to learn where famous Turkish bar – meze restaurant Refik is situated ( towards Pera Palas hotel ) Then walk by St. Antuanne Church, stop by Galatasaray High School, Ara Guler’s photo exhibition on the street where his cozy café Ara is situated, Flower Arcade ( cicek pasaji ) , fish – vegetable market , Nevizade Street.
You will also be familiar with the location of great Istanbul view bars, restaurants including 360, Hacı Baba, and Hacı Abdullah on this strolling tour.
Ottoman Military Band & its Beethoven Connection
At 15:00 o’clock ( not available on Mon & Tue ) is the Ottoman military band performance at Nisantasi district. Half an hour lasting first half of the concert will introduce this band that influenced in Mozart, Beethoven and Chaikowsky, as a result of which the style called “Ala Turca” was born. When the concert takes place indoors there will also be an impressive slide presentation for 10 minutes. You may listen to their favourite tune at:
http://www.islamicity.com/Travel/turkey/2.mp3
Basilica Cistern
The cistern, built by emperor Justinian around 542, is also called the “Sunken Palace”, which aptly reflects the magical atmosphere of this subterranean building. The reservoir had a capacity of 80.000 cubic feet of water and provided the quarter around the Hagia Sophia as well as the emperor’s palace and later the Topkapi palace. On an area of 453 x 213 ft. (138 x 65 m) or 2,2 acres (8970 m²) a dim wood of 336 marble columns, which support the up to 8 m high vault, is reflected in the
water. This is where a sequence of the Bond movie, “ From Russia with love” was filmed.
Walkways and atmospheric lighting make the Cistern a great tourist attraction, which takes you back into ancient times.
Chora
Chora Church (Kariye Camii in Turkish) is the most interesting Byzantine church after Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. The importance of the church does not come from the building itself , the frescoes and the mosaics are superb and reflect the magnificient heritage of Byzantine Art. The Chora Church Museum is open every day from 9 a.m to 4:30 p.m except Wed.
The word “Chora” means “in the country” because of the original church which was outside the city walls. There are no remains left from the original church and the first form of the present structure dates back to 11C. The church was founded by Maria Doukaina, mother-in-law of Alexius Comnenos I between 1077-1081. Today’s church was constructed after two centuries, the walls were revetted with superb mosaics and a pareclession was added decorated with beautiful frescoes. The founder of the church was Theodore Metochites who served as a prime minister during the time of Emperor Andronicus Palaeologus I. He was also an astronomer, poet, theologian and philosopher. Actually he lived a very sad life, after Palaeologus was replaced by another emperor, he was sent to exie. After he came back to Konstantinople, he devoted himself to the church as a monk and he died there. Early in the 16C, the church was converted to a mosque by Atik Ali Pasha and the mosaics were covered with plaster. In 1948, it was restored by Byzantine Institute of America and opened as a museum in 1958.
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