There are limited outdoor areas on the regular Bosphorus cruise , so you are stuck indoors with limited view :

Is there a finer istanbul bosphorus cruise experience?

As in the photo above , you will possibly end up in an overcrowded – packed Bosphorus city line boat ( Bogaz Hatlari Vapuru ) departing across from Spice Market ( Egyptian Bazaar ) : The earliest departure being at 10.35 ; and enjoy a mediocre cruise experience, as in the photo below ; or you found this page and you have a bright option! :
………………………………………………

Is there a better Bosphorus Cruise?

Yes there is; if quality is not meaning quantity for you, this departure from Ortakoy district in the afternoons is a truly good experience : You have outdeck seats with a nice outdect fresh air, Bosphorus experience : It departs from below the first suspension bridge, the pier is next to Ortakoy ( Buyuk Mecidiye ) Mosque.

…………………………………………
* The photos above are from my visual Istanbul Guide for a better Istanbul experience .

Summer 2010 another option for those looking for a bit longer Bosphorus experience by IDO city lines :

Duration : 2 hours begins from and returns to Eminonu , departs at 2.30 pm

rate 15 lira ( 10$ US approx ) Eminonu is same area with Spice Market ( Egyptian Bazaar )

Bosphorus Cruise Loop

* Article is by Oguz Kosebalaban , professional Istanbul tour guide, with suggestions of finer ways to enjoy Istanbul , stepping up from tourist level tours to true experience with more insight. For more Istanbul notes like this: http://mristanblue.wordpress.com/

This began with the shopping festival of Istanbul called ShoppingFest in March: The museums of highest attraction including Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace ( plus the archaelogical museum ) will stay open until 7 pm , opening at 9 am. For the rest of the museum operating hours you may browse the rest of these pages , through the “older” button at the bottom of this page.

From 18th of March 2011 on, Hagia Sophia , Topkapi Palace, Archaelogical Museum, Turkish and Islamic Art Museum operating hours are between 9 a.m. and 19.00 p.m. I recommend visiting Topkapi Palace from 3 pm until 7 p.m. if you plan to stay 4 hours ( this plan works well beginning from the Harem part ( add-on entrance fee of I presume it was 15 lira = 1$ US ) Topkapi and Hagia Sophia Entrances are both 20 lira each.

18 Mart 2011 tarihinden itibaren Ayasofya Muzesi, Topkapi Sarayi Muzesi, Turk ve Islam Eserleri Muzesi ve Arkeoloji Muzeleri mesai saatleri; 09:00-19:00 olarak yeniden duzenlenmistir.

August 2011 – My suggestion as a partial solution to hunger in Africa :
I am sure Australia also does countless imports from Africa ; yet Avustralia has got this problem of enormously growing Kangorou and camel population. They make fine peperoni ( sucuk in turkish ) from camels in Turkey. Camel travels well and even used to desert conditions :
Hey Avustralian government ( and the countries providing funds for hunger in Africa ) , ship those camels to Africa! Same may be considered for Kangarous; if live shipment is a problem, send them as pepperonis. Kangorou and camel for source of meat : read more at these links :

http://www.csiro.au/files/mediaRelease/mr2004/kangaroofat.htm

http://www.feralcamels.com.au/frequently-asked-questions-about-australian-feral-camel-management-project#15.eatmorecamelinaustralia

The attack should more clearly be reflected as Libyans protected from Kaddafi, as opposed to Libya being attacked. Unfortunately, when you do not  include even one of  the nations of the region from the United Nations , and attack the Libyan government forces or army targets with civilian casualties that can not be avoided, this looks like Libya being attacked, not Libyans recued from Kaddafi.

The water powered robots make use of different functions of water like syphoning, forming  clocks, water mills, toys for grown ups as well as children.

One can walk to this museum from Ayasofya in 5 minutes  following the tram railroad down the hil to face   the monumental gate of Gulhane Park , then simply keep to the left in the park , it is  the second building visible at a short distance.

A combination to this museum for families with kids maybe Zihni Sinir’s warehouse :  The collectible creations of Zihni Sinir are available  at his ware house in Cukurcuma artisans District, get out from the streetcar ( tramvay ) at Kilic Ali Pasa Mosque , at Tophane ( cannon manufactury, 16 c. bce , today used as art gallery by Istanbul art university. Modern Art Museum is also a short walk from this stop. This tour can be combined with a tour of Istiklal Street, passed by the Cezayir ( Fransız – French ) Street.

If you have not been walking and standing for 8 hours ( from 9am  to 5pm)  your following day will be ruined with your exausted body from this strenous day.

Yes,  staying  in the old town close to the monuments is a benefit, but most people are not equipped  for a tiring tour like this. If you are over  20 year old and not a sportsmen, or a goaty traveller who is used to many hours of walking ( agreable distances )  and standing a full day walking tour is too much.

It should be half a day walking tour ,  good combination can be a  Bosphorus cruise, drive along the Golden Horn with a cable car ride to Pierre  Loti  hill at Eyup district with a brief stop at the Islaimc sacred sites ,  or Ottoman Band performance.

2.  Bosphorus Cruise :

a. 10.35 departure of city lines IDO ( pier is across Spice Market , right side of Galata bridge )  is packed; go for the next one at about  12 o’clock , and there is one more that loops and brings you back ( see my article about it ) ;   it explores both European and Asiatic shores, and offers more.

b.  If you have the insight of identifying the difference between quantity and quality ; take a shorter ( one hour)  cruise  from Ortakoy ( again see my article about it  browse this blog or  google “bitter bosphorus cruise” )  : Because the city transportation boat is not the rifgt type of boat for a pleasurable scenic Bosphorus experience. The limited outdect areas are all taken and you get stuck behind tiny windows.

3. Topkapi Palace & Hagia Sophia 

In summer when Istanbul is packed , there are lines to buy a ticket for these museums ( Yes, the Byzantine Cathedral Hagia Sophia is also a museum ) ; and especially the treasury section of Topkapı Palace gets packed ( three tours groups alone make 120 visitors lined up outside it )  :

 Your best bet in summer time when the palace is open until 7p.m ( last entrance 6 p.m. , indoor areas get closed from 6.30 on )   just get in the palace at 5 p.m. ;  or 4.30 p.m. if you will also visit the Harem ( extra ticket sold inside , at its entrance for about 10$ US ) , and beat the crowds : Tour groups tend to go back to their hotels by 5 p.m. , orelse head for the bazaars by 4 pm ; as a result you have a big chance of having a leisurely tour especially from 5.30 on in the palace.

Originally , if you are staying for 5 or more days in Istanbul , you may plan like a little less then half  a day for this palace alone, others will come back to Istanbul anyways.

4.   Asiatic Istanbul

This is a good experience to non touristy Istanbul missed by over 90% of the visitors.  Consider a dinner escape to Asia, Kadikoy district. Easy to commute by city lines boat from Eminonu ( Across Spice Market , Kadikoy pier ) . Kadikoy has got a nice walking district, produce market with many restaurants. Ciya is also here, but fine restaurants in districts of Kalamis, Moda, Canak Rest.  of Acibadem are easily accessible from here.

5.  Ottoman Military Band    performs in the Military Museum at 3 p.m.closed on mon and tue  3.30 pm is second half. comes with 6 min video , 60 members in original Ottoman costume , admission fee: few liras , 2$ or so.

Although this can be combined with any tour to the new town ( Taksim Square – Istiklal Street )  visitors get tired from the 1000 advises of their guide books and end up missing this one.

6. Historical Turkish Bath visit  for a non-bather

Especially Cağaloğlu Turkish Bath is a good brief experience, browsers  are welcome since they are potential customers.  Its lounge area is full of character, including the masseur characters hanging in that area , but not limited to that.  This can be included to your walking route to the Grand Bazaar, from Hagia Sophia, past  the entrrance of Basilica Cİstern on the same street.

7.  Courtyard of New Mosque

This should be included to any tour of  Spice Market. This courtyard is a good example to less is more; those grand mosques , Blue or Suleymaniye can nor compete with the charmingly decorated well proportioned courtyard of Blue Mosque.  

Ramadan Holiday in Turkish is Ramazan Bayramı,  it follows the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan. Turkey is secular , however , the museum times are influenced.  Following Ramadan holiday, within September, most museum’s opening time will be similar to what it is on the second or third day.

Best time to go to Topkapi Palace is 2 hours before it closes, best time to go to Dolmabahce in summer is right when it opens in the morning; orelse there are long cues, or in the afternoon the visitor capacity of the palace finishes. If you have a guide, your guide purchases your ticket for you without waiting on the line for most of the museums : Exception :  Dolmabahce Palace. The tickets can be booked through a travel agency if you book your tours through a travel agency , but minimum about 3 days in advance.  I also offer Dolmabahce reservations through my associate authorised travel agencies.

Topkapi Palace (Tel: 0212 512 04 80):

1st day   opens pm  at 13:00  last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:00

2nd day    open between   09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00

3rd day         ”         ”       09:00-19:00  last entance 18:00

Ayasofya Muzeum   ( Hagia Sophia – St. Sophia ) (Tel: 0212 522 09 89):

1st day   opens pm  at 13:00  last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:00

2nd day    open between   09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00

3    day    open between   09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00

Kariye  ( Chora )  Muzesi: (Tel: 0212 631 92 41):

1st day   opens pm  at 13:00  last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:00

2nd and 3rd  day    open between   09:00-19:00 last entrance 18:00

Dolmabahce (Palace ) Sarayi: (Tel: 0212 236 90 00):

1. day closed
2. day open bet  09:00-17.00 last entrance  16:00
3. day   ”       ”   09:00-17      ”        ”        16:00

Istanbul Arkeoloji Muzeleri: (Tel: 0212 520 77 40):

1. 1st day   opens pm  at 13:00  last entrance 18:00, closes at :19:0
2. day     open bet.   09:00-19:00   last entrance  18:00
3. day     open bet.   09:00-19:00   last entrance  18:00

Efes Muzesi: (Tel: 0232 892 60 10):

1. gun ogleden sonra acik, acilis 13:00, kapanis 19:00, son giris 18:30
2. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
3. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30

Efes Orenyeri: (Tel: 0232 892 60 10): Acik

1. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30

2. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30

3. gun 08:30-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30

Ankara Anadolu Medeniyetleri Muzesi: (Tel: 0312 324 31 60-61):

1. gun ogleden sonra acik, 13:00 acilis, kapanis saati 18:30, son giris 17:30.
2. gun acik, 08:30-18:30 arasi acik, son giris 17:30
3. gun acik, 08:30-18:30 arasi acik, son giris 17:30

Antalya Muzesi: (Tel: 0242 238 56 88):

1. gun ogleden sonra acik, 13:00-19:00 saatleri arasinda acik, son giris 18:30
2. gun acik, 09:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30
3. gun acik 09:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:30

Goreme Acikhava Muzesi: (Tel: 0384 271 21 67):

1. gun ogleden sonra acik, 13:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:15
2. gun acik, 08:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:15
3. gun acik , 08:00-19:00 arasi acik, son giris 18:15

Grand Bazaar  Kapalicarsi: (Tel: 0212 522 31 73):  Sep 8 open all day ,

closed during post ramazan holiday  (9,10,11,12 Sep) and following sunday

Egyptian Bazaar Misir Carsisi: (Tel: 0212 522 55 92):

closed during post ramazan holiday  (9,10,11,12 Sep) and following sunday

Basilica Cİstern Yerebatan Sarnici : (Tel: 0212 512 15 70):

1st day   opens pm  at 13:00  last entrance 18:30, closes at :19:00

2nd and 3rd  day    open between   09:00-19:00 last entra

dressing code in Istanbul

Photographers in Turkey  love to take photos like this one  , showing contrasting eastern and western faces or conservative vs modern , religious vs secular or maybe in the eye of a devout person proper versus sinful
Yes the photo will be more artsy if you have proper light , better resolution and not much distraction to the main subjects; next time let me use models )

The photo above is it is taken during the month of Ramadan , in front of Blue Mosque, and this is ground of the ancient hippodrome after the iftar ( after sunset – end of the day, end of the fasting ) . This is like an Islamic festival ground all Ramadan long after iftar; and you can try many sorts of home made meals to kebabs, deserts and view pious citizens enjoying themselves.
Originally at religious neighborhoods exposed shoulders like the girl in the photo is not proper , especially at a religious festival ground , but since the area is a prime tourist interest site and so close to all the hotels ; the very religious feeling of the festival ground seems to have been spoilt by the girl in the photo ( with two more friends of her ) . Elsewhere at a number of places , less conservative grounds, districts or events this could have been an okey outfit, but not necessarily right there ; and yet, let’s admit : She is so well prepared : Fİrst I saw her she had that shawl  around her neck covering her shoulder like her friends did; and growing the feeling for the neighbourhood the shawl just almost disappeared by going around the neck.  Good tacticks; not too respectful to the neighborhood, but well prepared.

Well this was evaulation of  the photo : In short any dress can be acceptible depending on situations. Turkey even has beaches where people go topless, however especially when it comes to visiting religious areas like Eyup distrcit or sites like mosques, proper dressing is required.  The dress of the girl above by covering the shoulder could even work in mosques ( courtyard is part of the mosque ) .

Exception for Blue Mosque ( Sultanahmet Mosque is its  genuine name ) : You could walk in to the courtyard with a proper short like a bermuda if the courtyard is not used for a warship to immediately go to the entrance to be  given  shawl to wrap around your belly ( in more conservative areas you will be required to put a scarf to your head as well – ladies only ) . If you walk around in shorts in the courtyard, 90% no one says anything but you may hurt the conservative people : That ground is built for their use and if you would like to share their ground with them , you need to notice their regulations, respect their faith. A proper dress, but hair exposed is considered okey in most mosques.

For a man ( and possibly for women ) a bermuda as long as the knee is good enough.  For the man it meets the exact Islamic regulation. Usually knee to be covered.
Enjoy your time in Istanbul ( Eyup district with the 5 min.  cable car ride to Pierre Loti Hill and the modern Sakirin Mosque in Asiatic Istanbul enhances your appreciation of the city ; Istanbul is not only old town, Bosphorus, Taksim square, 3 palaces 1 cistern, 1 mosque, 2 churches, 2 bazaars. If you believe you had good enough Istanbul by 2 -3 days in Istanbul ; that judgment is inadequate , do not read the rest of this  blog.

in by 2ft 2in] with the
the imperial cipher – the tugra, and a chronogram
verse ( a Chronogram
verse is a verse in which the the numerical
values of all the letters equal the
date of the commemorated event).

A poem by poet Ziver Pasa containing a chronogram was written by the order of the Sultan :
“In support of eternal friendship,
Abdülmecid Han allowed his honorable
name to be written in the tall stone ( monument) in Washington. “

The text In Ottoman Turkish :
Devam-ı hulleti te’yid içün Abdülmecid
Han’ın yazıldi nam-ı paki seng-i balaya
Vashinkton’da.

The artist, calligrapher Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi :

Güzel yazılmış bir hattı okumak lalenin kokusunu almaya benzer.

Reading a well  written calligraphy is like smelling a tulip
Kazasker Mustafa İzzet Efendi

( Kazasker may translate is minister of Justice literally kadı – asker , judge soldier )
He was a great Caligrapher, a graduate of Galatasaray Imperial School ( still existing, today as a high school, as the famous historical Galatasaray High School on Istiklal Street of the new town ) .
His incredible voice collected the attention of the previous Sultan and he was initially educated in the impreial palace as a ney ( ottoman reed flute ) performer – floutist . He was also the master teaching Ottoman princes the caligraphy art.

The roundels at Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) read the names of Allah, Muhammed and the first 4 caliphs (Ebubekir, Ömer, Osman, Ali) , each with a 7.6 meter diameter.

(*2) by M. Ugur Derman

“From some traces of gold leaf still remaining
in the upper right and left cornices, we can
see that before the plaque was sent to America,
the calligraphy and decoration cut in bas relief
were gilded with gold leaf. In spite of the broken
letter elif in the lam-elif of bala (high, lofty)
and the fact that the dot over the letter nun (n)
of Vas¸inkton has fallen off, and that some of the
finials are later restorations, the plaque has
fared quite well over its 147-year existence.”

Top sites and museums u should see in Istanbul :

1. Topkapi palace
( , treasury ticket , hectic ticket booth locations info : )

Harem : (most tours don’t include it. It’s considered as a seperate museum in the palace.  (Tickets are 10$ approx). It has got around 400 rooms. Only about 15 – 20 of the chambers are open to visitors.

There is no guided tour,  and very few explanatory signs;  it seems like the museum is pushing a private company’s electronic guide service purchase . With the exception of 3 – 4 chambers   (  the large ceremonial hall, chief eunuch room with  his and an assistant’s maniquenne -  model  – , one of sultan’s mother’s coffee corner )  you do not really see    furniture.  Sutan Ahmet private chamber has got almost no furniture,  but the little decorative fountain, tile work, the fireplace can be enough by itself   to make your visit to the Harem worthwhile ; if 19th century style talks to you, the Harem of Dolmabahce has got all of the genuine furniture , paintings, chandiliers, that may talk to a number of visitors more, but architecture of Topkapi palace Harem part is simply impressive.

First you would buy a ticket to get in the palace. The Harem tickets are sold inside the palace, in front of the entrance of the Harem. The tours begin every half an hour. Towards the closing time the palace is more peaceful (cruiseship groups are gone ) , there is an excellent outdoor cafe – restaurant facing the Bosphorus straits – one of the best view in town, if you are not on a budget tour , its a la carte restaurant has got one of the top lamb schank you may ever it in all of Turkey ( also at Ali Baba and Hacı Abdullah restaurants , plus I cook it as good ) .

( the roof of Hamdi Restaurant – lunch or dinner , short walking to the Spice Bazaar (we call it Misir Carsisi – no dots above the i letters and a comma at the bottom of C, attached to it – the turkish letter for ‘ch’.

2. SAINT SOPHIA CHURCH – The Byzantine Cathedral , the Church of the Divine Wisdom, with its bright red brickwork and its four minarets. Emperor Justinian’s dream was chiselled out of stone in record time   5 years and 10 months! On 27 December in 537 AD,  the church opened up as  the  largest Christian church of its time.   Sultan  Mehmet II.   after conquering Constantinople, converted  the church into a Mosque. And this destiny is easily visible on a tour (9:30 am – 5:00 pm Tuesday to Sunday; admission is 20 lira = 10 euro = 13,5$).

3. THE BASILICA CISTERN -A Bond   movie locaiton :  – From Russia with Love , showing Mr. Bond escaping from one building to another by sailing on a little boat in the cistern.

4. A Bosphorus Cruise.

6. ST. SAVIOUR IN CHORA CHURCH – You will appreciate Byzantine art at its peak with the mosaics and fresqoes decorating all of the walls of the church, giving completer life cycles of Mary and Christ (Mary’s childhood details are breathtaking, unknown to westerners – bases on Apocriphal work of St. James )

7. BLUE MOSQUE & SULEYMANIYE MOSQUE- The top two Imperial mosques of ISTANBUL . The Blue Mosque is exceptional in more ways than one. Being the only mosque with six minarets and thus seen to rival the Great Mosque in Mecca, the latter had an extra one added after all, Mecca is Mecca! The cost of building the Blue Mosque was exceptional too: it turned into a black hole for the public purse.

In retrospect, the horrendous costs did pay off, though. So: dress appropriately, you are entering a mosque, after all ( if you’re not wearing something suitable,  scarf or a shawl is provided free of charge at the entrance. It is adviced to carry a schawl on this holy gounds of the mosque to use as a skirt if you are wearing a short not to offend the warshippers)   no entry at prayer times, also half an hour prior to to close the gate  tourists enter through the  gateon the west side shoes off,  socks, or matching socks not a must. If you are wearing a bermuda pull it down to your knees and that is fine for a man , for ladies, they may still provide a schawl to wrap your self up.

Once inside, the visitor is astonished by  cascades of light  colour and designs:  tiles with dominant color blue, huge candelabras, and 260 windows, most of them stained glass   make for an unrivalled impression. And, with the mosque not only being a place of worship, but also a social institution, it was also provided with a soup kitchen, a hammam for the bath and shops.

8. ASIATIC non touristy ISTANBUL – Ignored by visitors , Asiatic Istanbul is also impressive . Would you like to be the only tourists in a local vegetable and fish marketplace and then have lunch at restaurant, where the grand grand father of the owner was THE COOK OF THE OTTOMAN PALACE!  Followed by a drive through the top residential areas and scenic Bosphorus driveway.

Sakirin Mosque with its reputaiton of being the first one designed by a woman ( Mrs. Fadillioglu ) is among places of interest, highliy worthwhile.

9. Shopping at the Grand or the Egyptian Bazaar.

10 . TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ARTS MUSEUM ( across Blue Mosque, behind Egyptian Obelisk  )

11. THE HOUSE OF MR. SABANCI – This is one of the two top wealthy Turkish families, their palatial house is just converted into a private museum; what a priviledge to see it . Mr . Sabanci is an art collector, and his Calligrapy collection went around the world. The family at one point was in Fortune 500 listing .

12. THE ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM – includes unique artefacts like Alexander the great Sarcophagus. One of the most important archaelogical museums of the world.

13. STREET CAR RIDE ON ISTIKLAL STREET – Fanciest walking street of Istanbul with late 19th century Italian architecture. Cafes, bars, window shopping, people watching. Famous Pera Palas Hotel can be included.

14. PRINCE ISLANDS & CART RIDE ON THE GRAND ISLAND – For Istanbul visitors staying 4 days or more.

Istanbul – the Byzantine Constantinople Istanbul was the capital city of three empires : Ottoman , Byzantine , and Roman Empires , and she was ruled over 120 kings, emperors and sultans. The impressive Bosphorus Straits of Istanbul with so many palaces and mansions built along is admired highly by the visitors on a fancy 2 hour cruise. This is also the site of the �Clashing Rocks� in the Mythology, through which �Jason & The Argounats� were trying to pass. Many visitors come back to Istanbul in winter for a weeks� stay to enjoy more in depth. Active churches, and Synagogues as well as the mosques attract visitors at religiously significant days, like feasts, or Christmas. Special Istanbul visits : Topkapi & Dolmabahce Palace, The Blue Mosque, The Grand Ottoman Military Band of the Ottomans, Saint Sophia Church & Basilica Cistern of the Byzantines , An unforgettable Bosphorus Straits Cruise , Shopping at the Grand or the Egyptian Bazaar.